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Hyaluronic acid as an injectable filler, its always easier to talk about a treatment thats been approved by the fda because you know theres plenty of research behind. In this case, we know that injectable hyaluronic acid really works to plump up wrinkles. The mechanism is simply the physical force of the high mw polymer. It penetrates because a needle is used to bypass the outer layers of skin, and we know it really works for for filling wrinkles and that it typically lasts for six months. Of course, just as with collagen or any other filler, you have to visit a professional to have the treatment done, it can be rather expensive, how much, and it has to be redone every several months. Even though it works this approach isnt for everyone. Hyaluronic acid as a moisturizer, is there a mechanism?
Restoring lost hyaluronic acid can be an effective treatment for a number of conditions. For example, its injected into joints to treat osteoarthritis. (It can be taken orally as well but its not as effective.) Its also used in eye surgeries like cataract removal and cornea transplants where it is injected directly into the eye. . And of course, its also found in skin, where it helps keep it plump and wrinkle free. Over time our bodies produce less hyaluronic acid and thats another contributing cause of wrinkles.
And that brings us to the key questionis hyaluronic acid a good skin care zakken ingredient? There are 3 or 4 different levels to that question because you can restore hyaluronic acid different ways. (Much like our discussion of collagen back in Episode 73). Its used as an injectable filler, a topical moisturizer, a cell communicating ingredient, and as a dietary supplement. Lets look at each of these to see what hyaluronic acid really does for skin. Once again well be using the three kligman questions cena which as if science has a mechanism to explain how it works, if the ingredient penetrates skin, and if there are any credible studies proving that it works on real people. Lets start by talking about hyaluronic acid as an injectable filler.
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The bacterial type was lower molecular weight but it was cheaper and didnt involve animal sourcing. But theres some danger of contamination with strep toxins. 2003: The fda approved hyaluronic acid approved as an injectable for facial lines and wrinkles. 2010 and beyond In the last few years a new method has been developed that makes hyaluronic acid from a safe bacterial strain called Bacillus subtilis. So today state of the art hyaluronic acid is free from contamination, not made from animals, and is made without the use of organic solvents.
What does hyaluronic acid do? We mentioned that hyaluronic acid is found in places like the fluid filled area of the eye and in joints. Thats because its ability to retain high levels of water. Its also very viscous, very thick, yet it thins out during shear stress so hyaluronic acid is said to be ideal as a biological lubricant. The average person has about 15 grams of hyaluronic acid in their body at any given time and about one third of that is turned over every day. There are enzymes that produce hyaluronic acid and other enzymes that break it down so its constantly being recycled.
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1934 hyaluronic acid was first isolated from cow eyes in 1934 and it was given its name from the term hyaloid which means glassy. (Because hyaluronic acid gel is so clear and glass like.) 1930-40s hyaluronic acid was isolated from other waar sources including umbilical cords and rooster combs. 1951 Chemists first determined the structure of hyaluronic acid. 1970s we began to understand how hyaluronic acid interacts with cartilage which is why its such a good joint lubricant. 1980s- The 1980s saw the first cosmetic application of hyaluronic acid. When the stuff first burst on the antiaging scene i was working for a small high end cosmetics company that used. At the time it was very expensive because it was sourced from rooster combs. As I recall it was about 500 a kilo maybe more. 1999- researchers figured out how to clone hyaluronic acid from bacteria (specifically Group a streptococcus).
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The official inci name is Sodium hyaluronic acid. . Just to make things more make confusing, its sometimes referred to as hyaluronan which is the generic name that covers all forms. . Finally there are 2 alternate versions which were aware. Sodium acetyl hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, where does hyaluronic acid come from? The quick answer is it comes from animals. At least its found in mammals Im not sure if its present in reptiles or fish. It might give you a little perspective if we went through a quick timeline starting from when hyaluronic acid was discovered.
But its a big sugar. Regular table sugar has a molecular weight skincare of about 340 units (Daltons). Ha has a mw of anywhere from 600,000 to 1,000,000 units. . Its structure and this large weight give it the ability to hold between 5 times its own weight in water. Thats why our bodies use it to hydrate tissues and lubricate joints. The many names of hyaluronic acid. First lets talk about the nameThis ingredient is most commonly referred to as hyaluronic acid which obviously is the acid form. . Another version is the sodium salt which is officially known as sodium hyaluronate. These two terms are used interchangeably. .
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Do you wonder which anti-aging ingredients really work? Today were reviewing the evidence for hyaluronic acid. Which anti-aging ingredients really work? When it comes to anti-aging products its easy to be tricked into spending a lot of money on products that arent worth. Thats because theres so much pseudoscientific misinformation out there about anti-aging cosmetic ingredients. Also, once you buy an anti-aging product, it takes you a long time to determine chanel if its really working for you or not. Thats why were going to focus some of our podcast episodes on specific anti-aging ingredients, today were talking about hyaluronic acid. What is hyaluronic acid? Think of it as a large sugar molecule, what chemists would call a polysaccharide.